Give somebody a tube of caulk and a caulking gun and he can watertight your bathtub in under an hour. Caulking is easy to do but if you don’t prepare well it’s easy to get everything messy.
Learning how to caulk a bathtub is a meticulous process. If it’s not done right, it can result in water seeping into the walls and end up damaging them. Caulk gets old, rusty, and cracks every few years. So you need to remove and reapply the sealant when needed.
In this article, we’ll show you how you can re-caulk a bathtub in the best way. We’ll go through the process step by step so that you can confidently end up with a long-lasting, smooth caulk.
The Step By Step Guide To Caulking
Buy a Good a Quality Caulk Gun and the Right Caulk
Bathtubs need a special kind of caulk that has ingredients against mold and mildew growth included as a protection against constant water use. Among the variety of tubes, you can recognize this kind by seeing “for kitchen and bath use” on the label.
Caulks are usually of two types – silicone or latex. Although latex is a less widely available option, if you are a beginner then going for it would be a good idea. It is easy to apply and remove and it can be cleaned with just water and soap.
Silicone caulks are the most widely available ones. It’s a bit of a challenge to apply or remove this if you’ve never had experience with it beforehand. Cleaning silicone is a bit harder than latex as silicone needs mineral spirits for cleaning. In terms of durability – silicone is longer lasting than latex caulk. Silicone stays much more flexible for a long time. Both kinds of caulk develop molding with time as the additives keep wearing out.
Most tile stores have a large variety of colors available. If you don’t find your desired color you can ask the salesman whether it is possible to get a custom colored caulk. You can also find a range of colors in a paint hardware shop.
Along with the caulk tube, get a good quality caulk gun. It’s not very expensive and worth the price. Get something that has a sturdy plunging mechanism and it’ll provide even release flow so you can apply sealant smoothly in all areas.
Remove Old Caulk
Bathtub Caulk has additives to prevent mildew from forming. But they wear out with time and there comes the need to apply a new seal. And for that, you have to remove the old existing caulk first. Make sure you research how to remove old caulk from bathtub surroundings, and you can proceed as per this article.
Once the old caulk has been properly removed, use any mold-removing product along with the gaps around the tub walls. After the tub is washed, let it dry and again repeat the cleaning with a mineral spirit to ensure complete removal of the old caulk.
Mask With Tapes to Get a Clean Gap
This is an optional step. If you’re not a pro, you can take this as a big help in applying the caulk precisely. It is time-consuming, but you’ll see why this is a good idea in the end. Place two strips of tape all around the bathtub where it meets the walls. Leave a small gap between the tapes to apply the caulk. The gap in between is the width of the sealant you’ll be applying.
Apply the Caulk
Load the tube in the gun and cut the tube tip-off of the exact size of the gap between the tapes, it should be of the same width of the gap. Hold the tip at an angle you like. Some prefer a 90-degree angle whereas a few say 20 or 45 degrees is better. The best way is the way you’re comfortable holding it.
Slowly and steadily put pressure on the gun handle and apply caulk between the gaps. Start from a corner and move it along the entire edge. Don’t worry if you apply a little more caulk as you can easily remove it by peeling the tape off. After applying the sealant, put your finger into the seam and try to smooth out the seal. it will create a concave-like shape. Run your finger along the seam from edge to edge in a continuous line to ensure an unbroken smooth line.
Remove the Tape
Strip away all the tapes from the sides of the bathtub before the caulk dries out. This will create a clean, straight sealant line. Try not to touch the seam of the caulk and carefully remove the tape.
Smooth the caulk again using a soaked cloth if necessary. Some places have ridges because of the tapes, you can smooth them as well. This will give a seamless finishing.
Caulk is a borrower’s closest buddy, binding all of the home’s little gaps and crevices and keeping water, air, and creatures out. However, caulk does not endure indefinitely. To prevent water damage, learn how to caulk a shower.
Caulks are used to fill up gaps in buildings for the sake of economies, flexibility, and functionality. Their goal is to separate and regulate environmental factors like rainwater and climate in order to improve the performance of the building is protected. Sealants and caulks have an increasing number of uses in the building, industrial, and consumer industries.
Over a wide variety of climates, heat changes, and combined mobility circumstances, these composites must seal and cling to the proper mating surfaces. Fiberglass, masonry, brick, oak, steel, aluminum, and plastic substrates are among the surfaces to be sealed.
Caulk granite countertops, glass panels, garage doors, and cupboards as needed. Caulk the base of any walls that link two units in flats.
- Caulk the area surrounding the circuit box.
- Finishing the Perimeter
The sealing unit covers any holes, fractures, as well as gaps whenever feasible, include but are not limited to somewhere around conduits and pipelines, using IPM (Integrated Pest Management) techniques.
- Make sure all of the moldings are caulked.
- If any I.D. badge can slip here between trim and the cabinet, caulk between the trim and the cabinet.
- Keep all discarded materials secured to avoid sufficient energy to overcome (e.g., loose trim boards, loose hinges, uncaulked trim).
- Use transparent silicone in there all cabinetry, including where the coving ground meets the ground.
- Where cupboards touch the wall and whether the cove ground meets the wall, paintable caulking must be applied.
- The color of the caulk must resemble the neighboring area.
Any gaps bigger than 1/4” cannot be silicone caulk and require extra support, such as: o A 1/4-inch round wooden accent o Luan board o Expansion foam o Expandable foam must be cut or polished o Wood trim of various sorts o Heat-resistant tape (range hoods)
If the caulk surrounding your bathtub is broken or simply looks poor, use caulk to restore its appearance while also preventing water from seeping onto the ground. With the appropriate tools and caulk, you can perform a fantastic job. You can’t merely fill the crevices between both the old caulk and the wall; you have to remove all of it.
Remove the old caulk with a razor scraper or a very sharp 1/2″ wood chisel.
If your bathtub isn’t made of steel, start by scraping it with a plastic scraper to avoid scratching it. Although specialist caulk removers are available, they can harm plastic bathtubs. Scratches are also common on fiberglass and acrylic tubs. When using them, use rubber skimmers as well.
Scratch the caulk with short, rapid strokes with the blade or chisel flush against the bathtub’s edge. This will neatly dissolve the caulk off the area. • After you’ve gone all the way around the bathtub removing old cement, double-check for any places you might have missed.
- Pry out any difficult caulk with fingers.
- To preparation, the areas for the new caulk, clean up the bits of old caulk.
- Solubilized alcohol should be used to clean the bath. This helps clean effectively and dries more quickly than alcohol.
- Remove any leftover caulk fragments with denatured alcohol.
Chemical Method Of Caulk Removal
Mold always appears in bathroom caulking, sooner or later, so learning how to remove caulk is important
- A caulking gun
- Oscillatory device
- Blade for applying putty
- Polisher for razor blades
- Dagger (utility)
- Caulk with anti-mold and anti-mildew additives
- Cleaner of caulk
- Tape for wiping
- Mineral Water
- Disposable paper wipes
Slice through all the sealant around the walls with a scalpel blade or an oscillating tool fitted with a flexible scraper blade to remove the old caulk. Then brush the tub or shower floor with your knife or tool.
- Discard the leftover caulk by loosening it.
- Splash caulk eraser all over the leftover caulk and let it work its magic.
- Using a razor scraper, remove all of the old caulk.
- Using a rag, clean the surface.
Clean the Grout and Bare Tiles
- Eliminates any missing grout between the sidewalls and the tub or shower floor once the old caulk has been removed.
- Use a mold-killing solution to treat any mold in the grout around the wall/tub gap.
- Scrub the tile, then wipe it with water to remove the mold killer and allow it to dry.
- To speed up the drying process, use a hairdryer.
- Mineral spirits should be used one last time to clean the surfaces. Allow to dry.
- Fill in the blanks
- Start by masking the gaps in the wall corners.
- Begin by determining the greatest distance between both the tub/shower and the boundaries. The gap determines how far apart the two rows of tape must be spaced.
- Tape the sidewalls far above the tub or bathtub ground after that.
- Cement the tub or shower ground to complete the job.
- Spray, trim, and push
- Trim the needle end to the diameter of the gap.
- Holding the gun at 90 degrees to the gap, pull the gun forward as well as apply pressure while pushing a bead of caulk slightly ahead of the nozzle.
- Use only sufficient caulk to fully cover the gap.
Instead of 45 degrees, our experts recommend cutting the caulk tube nozzle at a roughly 20-degree angle. They also push a tiny bead forward of the tip while holding
The handgun should be aimed at the breach at a 90-degree angle.
- Starting at the perimeter of the room, wash your fingers with wine and use them as a tool.
- Wipe your fingertips from across the caulk and remove excess caulk from the hole to make a rounded bead.
Remove the tape
- While the caulk is still wet, lift a corner of the tape along with the tub and peel it off at a sharp angle.
- Then, along the wall, remove the tape.
- Finish by removing the adhesive from the board edges.
While the caulk is still wet, allow it to dry.
Heated or cooling/heating mixes with outside air through openings in the thermal envelope of your home, which includes the external walls, sashes, doors, roof, and flooring. Large quantities of energy can be wasted as a result of such air leakage. The majority of experts believe that sealing and weatherstripping any gaps will pay for themselves in energy savings within a year. When it’s chilly outside, caulking and weather stripping will also assist to eliminate draughts and make your home seem warmer. These two home insulation measures, however, are insufficient to replace the requirement for adequate insulation around the home.
Assessing air quality
As caulking and weatherproof strips restrict interior-outdoor air movement, you should check the quality of your inside air before using them. Dirt, mold, co2, and other interior air pollutants can be found in certain houses. Without adequate ventilation, sealing air leaks in these dwellings might also lock in indoor air contaminants. As a result, any proposal to tighten a home’s thermal envelope should be followed by an examination of your apartment’s circulation requirements. The evaluation and ventilation of indoor air quality are not included in this information sheet. For further data, see the “Resources” section at the conclusion of this summary report.
Caulking solution may be used to seal leaks in several areas of your home, such as around glass and garage doors. Exterior siding surrounding faucets, ceiling equipment, water mains, toilets, bathrooms, and other plumbing fixtures may prevent water damage both inside and outside the property, in addition to blocking air leaks.
For minor projects or particular purposes, caulking compounds are also available in aerosol cans, squeeze tubes, and ropes. Cleaning liquid caulk requires a solvent, but water-based caulk may be cleaned with water.
Caulking substances are also different in terms of strength, characteristics, and cost.
Caulking is a difficult task, despite the fact that it is not a high-tech procedure. Read and follow the mixture cartridge’s specifications. Also, remember these helpful hints to save yourself some time:
- To ensure optimum adherence, clean all surfaces to be caulked. Using a putty knife or a big knife, clean any old caulk and paint. To avoid sealing in humidity, make sure that the area is dry.
- Maintain a constant angle with the gun. For going deep into the crack, 45 degrees is ideal. When the caulking is pushed into the crack as soon as it comes out of the tube, you know you’ve got the correct angle.
- If feasible, caulk in a single continuous stream. Stop and start as much as possible.
- To avoid bubbles, apply caulk to the bottom of an aperture.
- Check for caulk adhesion on both edges of a crack or gap.
- To avoid applying too much caulking compound, press the trigger before drawing the gun away. This is considerably easier using a caulking gun with an automated discharge.
- If caulk leaks out of a hole, press it back in with a putty knife.
- Don’t cut corners. If the caulk evaporates, repeat it in a continuous stream to completely seal the crack.
Identifying air vents is a difficult task.
You are already aware of areas in your home where air leakage occurs, such as an under-the-door draught that causes you would like to wear socks. However, you’ll likely be looking for the less visible holes.
Examine locations where source methods come together, such as the intersection of brick and wood siding, the foundation and walls, and the chimney and siding. Examine the key sections for just any gaps that might lead to air leaks:
- Mail chutes
- Electrical utility service entries
- Doors as well as glass windows
- Telephone and cable television wires
You must first remove the old caulk from around your bathtub, shower, or sink before applying fresh caulk. Because newer caulk does not adhere to old caulk, if you don’t remove the old caulk first, the new caulk won’t be able to establish a watertight seal, allowing moisture to seep into places you don’t want it.
Using a mix of chemical caulk remover and manual equipment is the best approach to remove caulk. Because toxic cleaners take time to dissolve the caulk, you may remove it using hand tools alone if you’re in a hurry or don’t want to use chemicals.
Using a caulk removal product, such as those manufactured by 3M, DAP, and other manufacturers, is an easy way to get started with the caulk removal procedure. The link between the previous caulk and the floor, tub, or sink is destroyed by this chemical remover, easily accessible and easy to pull out of cracks and crevices.
In most bathtubs, a modest container of liquid caulk remover will remove around 20 linear feet of caulk. Use the product according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Another Method Of Caulk Removal
Tools / Equipment
- A putty knife made of plastic
- Caulk scraper or razor scraper
- Caulk stripper (chemical)
- Alcohol wiping
- Strip the caulk using the chemical caulk remover.
- Pour the chemical remover onto the old caulk bead until it is fully coated.
- Enable the caulk to relax before using it.
- Allow the caulk stripper to remain on the caulk as instructed by the supplier. Allowing the cream to cool slightly for optimum efficacy, according to some consumers, is beneficial.
Scrape the Caulk Away
Scrape away the old caulk with a plastic putty knife or other tools. As you scrape, attempt to pull it off in strips if at all feasible.
Check the surface completely and use the tool to remove any residual caulk residue. At this stage, a caulk removal tool or a razor scraper may be beneficial.
Wipe Down the Surfaces
Using a washcloth dampened with rubbing alcohol, thoroughly wipe the surfaces. Allow for thorough drying while putting fresh caulk.
To use a Tool to Remove Caulk
Several companies produce these caulk removal tools, This is occasionally sold as a package with equipment for spreading and polishing fresh caulk. The best tools are constructed of polymer or stainless steel to avoid scratching surfaces but include angles and blades to scrape caulking out of tight nook and cranny. One fantastic gadget from Hyde features a reversible and interchangeable corner scraper edge to guarantee you all have a straight razor
Caulk removing tools could be used on their own, but they also work well as a follow-up to using a toxic caulking cleaner.
Using a Razor Scraper
A decent, ancient razor scraping is yet another useful tool. The key is to use a razor-sharp blade and ensure that the cutting tip is level on the material to prevent scratches. For removing back tiny streaks of the old caulk, a blade is perfect.
To separate the caulk bead from the surface, scrape behind both side edges, then try to scrape it off in large strips. To avoid touching, avoid letting the blade’s corners come into contact with the ground. At all times, keep the tool at a low angle, virtually level to the surface. Scratching is especially common on acrylic and fiberglass surfaces.
Let It Dry
Allow at least 48 hours to let the caulk dry. You will be able to tell by seeing it. Keep the area well ventilated. Excess room humidity will lengthen the drying time.
So now you know how to caulk your bathtub and make it look new again. You can see how easy the whole process is when done right. Follow our guide to save yourself from wasted time and frustration.